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Best of the Tri-Cities -
At the Red Eye Cafe,
Baristas Make the Difference
Photos by Mark R. Leffler
by Mark R. Leffler
Asked to consider what has made The Red Eye Cafe a success,
owner
Arlene Maul returns repeatedly to the baristas.
Not familiar with the term? Think of them as the bartenders of coffee
houses. Using the term correctly can feel a little awkward (like
pronouncing
Van Gogh "Van Hochhhhk" like the Dutch, or however real Germans say
Goethe... "GURRRRR-tuh") but according to Maul they are the heart and
soul
of any successful coffeehouse.
"It takes passion and personality," she emphasizes. "They
have to care.
Anyone can make a good cup of coffee".
When Starbucks and Seattle spawned the latest renaissance of the java
joint some ten years ago, beaneries and coffee shops popped up faster
than
new condos in the townships. A pop culture phenomenon was born and pretty
soon in cities like Chicago you couldn't swing a cat without hitting a
Starbucks.
At first blush, a cuppa joe is a cuppa joe, and after all who couldn't
turn a profit selling a ten cent mug of coffee for two dollars? The
difference is atmosphere and barristas, and The Red Eye's combination of a
comfortable, arts-friendly, neo-Beat ambiance and a staff of enthusiastic
and congenial coffee enthusiasts make for a winning combination. In fact,
they were named "Best Local Coffee House" in this year's Review
Reader's
Poll.
Becoming a good barista is harder than becoming a good bartender, Maul
points out, "because you make the drink". Therefore the training of Red
Eye
baristas is crucial to their popularity and success. The eight person staff
is a mixture of new faces and longtime employees.
Barista training involves "lots of reading." Trade journals,
books, even
videos are involved. Basic training usually lasts about a month.
"I prefer someone who comes in not knowing anything." Maul
says. "It's
easier to train them the proper method of grinding, tamping espresso,
working the machines, cleaning up, the different beans..."
She looks for someone who is "personable, active in life... someone
I want
to spend time with because this is like a second family to us. For some
of them it's like their first family."
"I don't look for coffee house experience. Ninety percent of it is
their
personality."
The Red Eye was opened in 1992 by a pair of young caffeinated
entrepreneurs who now operate Espresso Milano in Midland. Maul purchased
the Red Eye in 1994. "I fell in love. I resisted for a long time
because I
didn't want something that I loved (spending time at the coffee house) to
become just a job," she laughs.
After school and work that took her to Tokyo and Chicago, she
relished the chance to create "A refuge away from home. It's a place to
get
a paper done, meet other people... connect people who ordinarily wouldn't
meet."
At the store, customers can also buy beans to grind at home. Sales are
skyrocketing, she says, partly due to their freshness (the beans, not the
baristas). Some of their most popular flavors are Berghof Blend, Cathedral
Blend and Kenya AA.
Gift baskets are popular, especially at the holidays, and generally range
in price from $15 to $100. Scones, an English biscuit with dried cherries
and fruit are also sold, and the Red Eye's bagels are shipped from New York
City.
Atmosphere is also a vital part of any coffee house. "Out of towners
love
this place," Maul says. "They can't believe they found this in
Saginaw."
Poetry slams have been featured at the Red Eye since it opened. Artists'
work is usually displayed on the walls. Maul, along with husband Robert,
enjoy
supporting local artists but also feature work from larger cities like
Chicago every so often, usually with a personal connection.
Music is usually furnished via digital cable radio. It offers better
controls and no ads, she points out. Visitors might hear anything from
Sinatra to Oasis to Fleetwood Mac to Primus depending on the time of day,
clientele or the mood of the staff. Late night customers should be prepared
for sudden loud jolts of acid house when a daffy rave mood strikes the
staff periodically, but complain loud enough and they turn it down. Albeit
grudgingly.
"I wanted to keep it simple," Maul stresses. "The main
focus is on the
drinks. That's why we don't have a lunch menu." They also sell
"chai" a
black tea with honey, spice and milk. Herbal teas, green, black and
flavored also sell well as do hot chocolate, frozen cappuccino
("Igloochino"), Mudslides, Italian sodas, French sodas, soft drinks,
juices
and smoothies (frozen fruit drinks)."
The Red Eye Cafe, 205 North Hamilton St. Saginaw, MI 48602. Hours: Monday
thru Thursday 6:30 am until midnight, Friday 6:30 am until 1 am, Saturday 8
am until 1 am, Sunday 8 am until midnight.
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